I’ll guess accommodation is in the Old Town or perhaps one of the hotels towards post-industrial Züri-West, so my tips relate to those sides of the city. (Zurich’s international event organisers usually avoid placing their guests in the liveliest, fun-est part the city where I live, as it’s also where Zurich likes to sweep the externalities of its sex & drug industries.)
- KRONENHALLE BAR — classic, intimate, impeccable drinks
Do insist Nora Osagiobare take you for at least one cocktail at Kronenhalle (Rämistrasse 4) after your event. It’s close to the Karl der Grosse venue, and excellent. The discrete entrance is even more difficult to find at the moment because it’s behind scaffolding. Inside it’s like how I imagine a luxury yacht from the 1930s might be outfitted: dark woods, small marble tables, green library-lamps with overly ornate stands. Impeccable service from the white tuxedo’d bar staff, and often such interesting characters at your elbow. And some mediocre Cubist artworks on the walls (originals, alas the family had to auction-off their better works a few decades ago.)
Breakfast
I just drink black coffee.
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MAME — world-class coffee
MAME, Josefstrasse 160 (original HQ) and MAME, Seefeldstrasse 19 (behind the opera house / near the lake). Personal friends owners Emi Fukahori and Mathieu Thies are coffee geeks and multiple world coffee championship winner (Emi, for filter coffee) and finalists (Emi, Mathieu for espresso-based drinks). Their flavour wheel makes it easy to decide which beans to choose. -
If you like solids, then two relaxed, weekday sit-down breakfast places would be Kafischnaps or Café des Amis. A few blocks from each other on Kornhausstrasse.
Daytime
Proximity to water rests the mind, so stroll along the Limmat (the city’s principal river) and/or take a shortish round-trip boat tour of Lake Zurich.
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LIMMAT to SPHERES — riverside stroll
I find the western bank cutier in the city, then after passing Zurich Main Station cross over one of the footbridges to the traffic-free eastern/northern bank for the pleasant stroll (dodging joggers) out to the post-industrial part of the city. Your turning-back point is café-slash-bookshop sphères (Hardtumstrasse 66) next to a footbridge. -
LAKE CRUISE — round-trip cruises
Boats depart from Bürkliplatz. This year’s drought means fewer public transport stations are accessible to the boats on Lake Zürich. The short cruise is 55 minutes, the longer one 105 mins. If you already have a 24-, 48- or 72-hour public transport ticket, check at the boat ticket office at Bürkliplatz if it’s zones cover all your boat tour. Bring a well-fitting hat, scarf and wind protection. Sunglasses. Cafe & toilets on board. Seating inside & out. So one can get a feel for the village settlements around the lake, or comfortably read inside. -
GRANDE — people-watching in an afternoon suntrap
Grande’s terrace (Limmatquai 118) overlooking the river becomes a packed, fashionable sun-trap in the afternoon. Bring sunglasses. If it’s busy ask/expect to share a table. (Great for eavesdropping). Also fine to bring a book and just read. -
OTOTO — lunchtime suburban sushi
Small venue (?husband & wife team?) with great-value lunch platters. Evenings on the expensive side. (Nordstrasse 199). -
HIKING — views over the city from the forest edge
If you’re only here for 36h or so, then you won’t be able to squeeze in a real hike. If you want great views over the city and — in good light — of the Glarner Alps, then my two suggestions are: i) walk (sweat!) or ride public transport up to the Rigiblick cablecar station, then walk southwards along Susenbergstrasse, optionally ascending to walk along the parallel Orelliweg to he appropriately named Viewpoint; or ii) take public transport to Bucheggplatz, then walk along the footpath Obere Waidstrasse out past allotments as far as restaurant Die Waid (great view, poor range of drinks/food) and back. The better view is when you’re coming back.
Evenings
- RÖSCHLIBACHPLATZ — gelato, drinks & people-watching
Gelateria di Berna (Röschibachstrasse 79) draws all ages to Röschlibachplatz late into the night. On sunny afternoons and warm evenings tables and guests spill out for former train station Café Bar Nordbrücke (Dammstrasse 58) and onto the square.
Supper
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JURABLICK — fondue in a forest hut above Zürich
If you like cheese there are a few okay fondue restaurants in the city. The better experience is to book (have someone book for you) a table at Jurablick, which is up in the forest of the city’s Uetliberg mountain (~400m altitude gain). Serves fondue Thur/Fri/Sat evenings. It’s cash only, no cards. Fondue + wine will be from CHF 40 per person. You can take public transport up, and then stroll down (to walk-off the cheese) afterwards. -
SUPPER — on expenses
If Zürich Liest covers dining expenses, then Neue Taverne has wonderful, modern, vegan cuisine in the Old Town (Glockengasse 8). Alternatively La Salle’s modern European cuisine inside the Schiffbau (a post-industrial formed ship-building factory turned big-box theatre space) would both be great, if Nora Osagiobare, an author, or festival team member can join you. n.b. Not so fun to visit alone. -
SUPPER — own dime
Restaurant Josef’s interior (Gasometerstrasse 24) is dark, loud with the sound of conversations and while still bo-bo, perhaps now more bourgeois than bohemian. Dishes all about the same size, you choose your own sequence. Ask to sit at the bar if dining alone. Nearby, post-industrial Zürich-West has the famous moules-frîtes in restaurant-bar-deli-bicycle shop Les Halles. Both can be combined with whatever live music is playing at Moods or Musikklub Mehrspur (the latter slightly more studenty). -
TWO OF MY DAYTIME FAVOURITES
SUKKULENTEN-SAMMLUNG: beautiful, atmospheric & gratis. Five large glasshouses home the city’s collection of succulents and cacti. Apparently among the world’s largest collections — (I think given in lieu of inheritance tax by) some early 20th century collector — has examples from all around the world, and spans dry/cold desserts to warm/moist regions. It’s free to visit. RIETBERG MUSEUM houses non-European art. Most the objects, park and villa belonged to a dead German banker/nazi/collector. My favourite section is the Orangerie, which houses delightful Indian and Pakistani, perhaps also Persian miniature paintings (donated by a Swiss artist). Magnifying glasses are provided! -
SMALL PEOPLE
If you have small person/people in tow, then here’s a link to a map of all the city’s kids playgrounds. I can crowd-source deeper toddler-highlights on request. -
HEAT — relaxation, rejuvenation, contemplation
My friend Susan runs a wonderful private sauna and bodywork studio, Serratus. The city has two hammams one in the popular part and the other in the posh part of town. Alternatively Sauna am See allows you to cool off between rounds with plunges into the Zürisee, if the water-levels permit.. -
EXTEND YOUR STAY?
The guest rooms at the Zollhaus and the Kalkbreite housing cooperatives are simple, and good value for Zürich. It’s where we put up our guests (our apartment is small). As a member of the cooperative I can get a 10% discount. The Kalkbreite site houses café Bebek, which is great for brunches too.